Feature: Under the Oaks

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Under the Oaks: Block Party

“On a hot day like today, our Avenue of Oaks just might be the coolest place in the Lowcountry that isn’t air conditioned,” laughs Barry Waldrop, who headed up this afternoon’s celebration. As the owner of True Charleston Cuisine, he’s the neighborhood’s unofficial chef, and just now, he’s busy putting the final touches on his holiday offerings: both fried and blackberry-glazed chicken, tomato pie, and of course, his famous mac-and-cheese. “Usually when we have a block party, I bring the staples, and the rest of the neighborhood brings the side dishes,” he says. “After all, you can never have too many deviled eggs!”

The neighbors are already crossing the broad green lawns, calling greetings to one another as they converge upon the tables lining the street. Whether they’re toting an armful of hydrangeas, a bowl of potato salad, or two toddlers in a red wagon, hardly a soul arrives empty-handed.

The residents of Riverland Terrace are an eclectic bunch. Long-timers and young newcomers, conservative and avant-garde, the community’s knack for getting along defies the neighborhood’s historically haughty beginnings. The 73 live oak trees lining what is now Wappoo Drive once led straight to the sprawling Wappoo Hall Plantation, built around 1890. Eventually the plantation land was sold off, and in the late 1930s, developers began planning for an elite community to rise up along the Stono River. Four identical Georgian mansions were built as models, but before the wealthy could begin to lay their claims World War I broke out. All plans were abandoned, and Riverland Terrace sprang up of its own accord: a neighborhood of nearly 1,000 “war homes” inhabited by newly arrived factory workers.

Two columns still flank the neighborhood’s unassuming entrance and three of the Georgians maintain their original grandeur, though they’re surrounded now by a more modest mix of 1940s bungalows and later-year ranches. Waldrop’s own business, just off the main road, is a testament to the sense of casual camaraderie that defines today’s Riverland Terrace. Though he makes his living preparing Lowcountry delicacies for area weddings, weeks when he’s not too busy, Waldrop opens up the kitchen to prepare casual fare for friends. A sign placed outside lets them know that the welcome mat is out, and that Uncle Barry’s Supper Club will be in full swing.

A similarly casual vibe pervades this Independence Day gathering. Burlap-covered tables are brightened with simple red, white, and blue tablecloths. As for centerpieces, bowls of strawberries and blueberries join jars of daisies, Queen Anne’s lace, and white hydrangeas for a patriotic color scheme. “Sometimes we get more elaborate with decorations, but for the Fourth, the colors of the flag, plenty of food, and our own Avenue of Oaks work just fine,” explains Waldrop.

“The Fourth of July is really just an old-fashioned holiday. I imagine we celebrate much the same as Terrace residents of 50 years ago,” he says. “We’ve got our friends, our food, and our independence, and that’s all we need.” 

One of the older girls has sketched hopscotch squares and called the other children over to play. The tables are piled with watermelon, potato salad, apple crisp, and other traditional favorites, and an ice-filled wagon makes an impromptu lemonade stand.

Inspired by a bucket of sidewalk chalk, the kids set to work on an American flag-drawing contest. “The winner gets to light the first sparkler of the night!” calls Waldrop, and the young contestants cheer. Sure enough, dusk is falling just as the last child steps away from his flag. The popping and sizzling of firecrackers can be heard from all across the island as a brief conference of adults declares one little boy the winner. Even as his sparkler is lit, more are being passed from hand to hand until the block is alight with tiny sparks and loud with calls of “Happy Fourth of July!”

Spicy Fried Chicken

Serves

10

Ingredients 

• 4 lbs. chicken drumsticks
• 1 1/2 cup buttermilk
• 1/4 cup Texas Pete hot sauce, or more to taste
• 2 cups all-purpose flour
• 1 tsp. salt
• 1/2 tsp. black pepper
• 1 tsp. garlic powder
• 1 Tbs. cayenne pepper
• 3 1/2 cups vegetable shortening

Directions 

Rinse chicken with cold water and pat dry with paper towel. Mix together buttermilk and hot sauce; coat chicken and place in the refrigerator to soak for 10 hours. Mix flour with salt, pepper, garlic powder, and cayenne pepper. Pour flour mixture in paper bag and place chicken in bag. Hold the end of the bag closed and shake for three to five minutes.

Once drumsticks are well-coated, heat the vegetable shortening in a heavy skillet to 350º F (melted shortening should be enough to cover chicken halfway). Unless you have several skillets to fry chicken all at once, you’ll need to cook in batches. Cook for 10 to 15 minutes on each side, rolling the drumsticks with tongs every five minutes or so, or until only clear liquid comes out when you pierce the drumstick with a fork. If oil gets too hot, cut down a few degrees. Cooking time is approximately 35 to 40 minutes.

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Blackberry-Glazed Chicken

Serves

6

Ingredients 

1 lime, thinly sliced

• 2 cups honey
• 1 Tbs. Dijon mustard
• 1 cup hot peppers
• 1 14 oz. jar sliced jalapeños, drained
• 1 Tbs. mint, finely chopped
• 1 18 oz. jar blackberry preserves
• 6 bone-in chicken thighs
• 1 pint fresh blackberries
• 1/4 cup fresh mint sprigs

Directions 

Mix lime, honey, mustard, peppers, jalapeños, mint, and blackberry preserves in a large mixing bowl. Add the chicken and let it sit in the refrigerator for one hour.

Place chicken on a hot grill, turning it every five to 10 minutes. After each turn, glaze the chicken with remaining marinade. Garnish with fresh blackberries and sprigs of mint.

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Lowcountry Potato Salad

Serves

10

Ingredients 

• 3 1/2 lbs. new potatoes, rinsed and cut into quarters with skin on
• 1/2 cup sour cream
• 1/4 cup dry white wine
• 2 cups crisp celery, chopped
• 8 eggs, boiled and quartered
• 3/4 cup scallions, chopped
• Pinch of salt
• Pinch of pepper
• 1/4 cup parsley, freshly chopped

Directions 

Place potato quarters in saucepan with cold, salty water and boil eight to 10 minutes or until tender (you should barely be able to pierce the potato with a fork). Drain potatoes and chill for one hour.

Combine all ingredients and toss. Garnish with freshly chopped parsley.

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