What fun there is to be had at the new Med Bistro in South Windermere. Fans of its predecessor, the iconic Med Deli, are apt to remember the consistently good food, wholesale wine prices, and service with chutzpah that kept diners returning for years for a steady diet of favorite black bean soup and burgers, neighborhood charm, and local music. Current owners Buzzy and Rebecca Newton have taken this funky little eatery to a pleasant middle-of-the-road landing somewhere between sandals and stilettos with vibrant changes in scenery and a renovated menu.

During a recent spontaneous visit, we settled our adult- and kiddie-sized appetites into
a big comfy booth just inside the front door, right behind acoustic duo Brad & Julienne.
We debated stopping at the surprisingly appealing outdoor tables but opted instead for the ­cooler indoors. Renovations have resulted in pleasant modifications to the long, narrow ­dining room of the past with a very pleasing result. Colorful bright lights and cheerful local art illuminating every wall and corner lend a festive finish to the black and lemon décor, while comfortable booths cushion the dining area from the lively bar. We were glad to see the new owners have retained the trademark butcher paper on the tables, complete with crayons for aspiring artists.

Comfort food and plenty of it is the name of the game, with endless options for an eclectic mix of favorite dishes from childhood and beyond. There are lots of choices for vegetarians as well. Starters include calamari and pumpkin ravioli, while fresh salads, such as the golden beet with pistachio-crusted goat cheese and truffle vinaigrette, are unusu­ally interesting and appealing. Hearty sandwiches, pastas, and generous entrées served with a choice of salad or soup, along with daily dinner specials, add to the dilemma when ordering. A serviceable wine list and wide range of imported beers offer plenty of beverage choices, and when we had difficulty making decisions, our server offered a sample or two.

Executive chef Todd Garrigan has been cooking in the area for five years and clearly knows the market he’s seeking to serve with the wide range of options we experienced. The word on the street had made up our minds to try the portobello fries first thing, and we were blown away by the fat fried mushrooms garnished with blue cheese fondue and balsamic syrup—a bit heavy on the fry perhaps, but then again, they are called fries. The she-crab soup was excellent, thick and rich with the tastes of crab and sherry predominating. Black bean soup was just as good as its predecessor’s version, perhaps even better we agreed, subtly seasoned with a contrasting chunky-smooth finish.

Pistachio-crusted salmon was very well-­prepared: tender, moist, and served over fresh spinach with zucchini, red peppers, and summer squash in balsamic vinaigrette. Not afraid to season with freedom and boldness, Garrigan does so successfully. His corn and butter bean ravioli served with braised collards and corn veloute was deliciously creative. The crab cake was our only disappointment, with too much filler and not enough crabmeat to meet our expectations. The coconut cake, however, won back major points with its perfectly sweet, dense, moist layers and cream cheese and coconut frosting, the crowning glory.

On another visit, Sunday brunch was a treat as well, and the fried green tomato benedict wowed us with lovely poached eggs served atop goat cheese and biscuits, generously anointed with light, lemony hollandaise. French toast, simple but superbly satisfying, was accompanied by fresh blackberries, blue­berries, strawberries, and pineapple. Another great idea: the grilled caprese sandwich—slabs of fresh mozzarella, juicy summer-ripe tomato slices, and fresh basil drizzled with olive oil and ­balsamic vinegar.

—Patricia Agnew